Happy Expats. Some tips for engineering your lifestyle in Panama.

Some tips for engineering your lifestyle in Panama.

This is part 2 of an article written by Arco Properties.

As is the case in most places, expats drawn here start with common denominators. Most apparently, those who come to live in Casco Antiguo are virtually selfdefined as eschewing the high-rise or golf club life available a short distance away, which draw their own compatible communities. This is a lively place, a walk-around neighborhood of plazas and restaurants where rundown and revitalized dwellings of three stories or less co-exist under a United Nations historic preservation designation. You are not lured into thinking a part of “back home” has been transplanted here, and it does not usually take long for a foreigner to make the “love it or leave it” decision. Yet while most who elect to stay remain happily, a few become disenchanted. As I have written before, the question that intrigues me, is why? Is it the experience or the individual that makes the difference?

On any block in Casco Antiguo, you may see laundry draped over the balcony of a century old dwelling next to a revitalized apartment house required by ordinance to keep its Old City touches, while work is underway on still another. About thirty restored apartments come on the market each year, most of which are purchased by foreigners, though two hundred or so expats still are just a small percentage of the Casco’s population of some 6000. My roles as a real estate broker and president of a neighborhood association make me (a Panamanian) constantly cognizant of our neighborhood’s human scale. As to expats, I come to know almost all of them, hence my opinions on what makes for a happy transplant.

As a group expats fascinate me, perhaps because I have been surrounded by them all my life: My parents were expats (both to and from Italy), I worked at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute in Panama with scientists from around the world, and my husband is from the States. As individuals, I am endlessly fascinated by expat backgrounds and talents. That little group of two hundred expats in Casco includes renowned scientists, private bankers, day traders, professional writers, energetic entrepreneurs right out of college, a working actor, quite a few globe trotting executives, at least two doctors, a director of a large NGO, the regional head of a famous luxury brand, a yoga instructor…the list goes on.

The great majority are extremely happy and I think that most will tell you that they could never see themselves returning to their home countries. In a recent survey of United Kingdom Expats, 71 percent said they thought they made the right decision, and I would have to guess that the number is not too different here.

Think about that for a second: accomplished people from big, highly-developed countries relocating to a small “third world” country for lifestyle. As a realtor, I met many such “successes” by telephone or email when they were first contemplating the move and was able to observe them through the process of deliberating, moving, making friends, becoming part of the community and then, finally, helping others to do the same.

In order to better counsel my clients who often become friends, I have tried to be analytical about what makes for a successful transition from a developed country to a developing country. In Part I of this article I wrote about things that all of the unhappy expats I have known had in common. But what about the vast majority who have flourished? They’ve built businesses, started families, made friends and in some cases fortunes. How do they do it?

Chemistry and Compatibility

I haven’t met anyone who can sit in a cafe on Casco’s 300-year-old Plaza Bolivar and not fall in love with the beautiful architecture in about the time it takes to down a Mojito. But the ones who have great chemistry with the place notice and appreciate much more subtle things, like the sounds of children playing in the street or the weathered wooden building with it’s peeling paint patina on the far corner or the old wandering salesman who sells hot bollos for .25 cents. When a person focuses merely on the architecture and tells me how much “potential” the neighborhood has and then asks, “When do you think it will be finished?”, I pretty much know the fit isn’t right for the same reasons that I wouldn’t want my best friend to date someone who took that approach with her.

Cultural adaptation

You can certainly survive in Panama with zero Spanish, but a 500 word vocabulary makes it so much more fun, and as a bonus, almost everything suddenly gets cheaper! The curiosity to find out why things are the way they are before jumping to how you think they should be is another great adaptation tool, and one that has the added benefit of getting you into a lot of interesting conversations. A good attitude which includes curiosity is about all that is required here.

Love for the underdog

One final thing I’ve noticed about the expats here is that quite a few seem to have a love for the underdog. I noticed this watching the world cup with a group of them because I was stunned to see that the group favorite was…Ghana? We Panamanians had been rooting for Brazil, Spain, Argentina, Italy–anyone we thought had a chance of making the finals, but all the expats were screaming their heads off for a team with no chance. I’m still puzzling this out, but somehow I think it wasn’t coincidence but rather a happy trait.

Moving from the developed world to the developing world is about more than lifestyle engineering. At some level expats are trading themselves to a new team–a scrappy up-comer with lots of opportunity and room for improvement, where a person coming from the outside with new ideas, energy and capital can be a meaningful contributor to a better future.

At the same time, they don’t have their expectations fixed on any definite result. Is Panama going to attain the tidy efficiency of a Switzerland in our lifetimes? About as likely as Ghana winning the World Cup (which is to say just possible enough to make it fun to watch). But the happy expat seems to understand that life is about the journey, not the destination. For them, watching little Ghana advance one round was infinitely more satisfying than rooting for the favorite Spain to win the World Cup–just like being a part of Panama’s little successes as it tries to make its way into the ranks of developed world countries.